Sorrento

Sorrento is the most important city on the Sorrento Peninsula which puts out into the sea between the Bay of Naples and the Gulf of Sorrento.

It is sing by poets and writers for its spectacular (beauty) charm.

Sorrento, not to be rhetorical is indeed the land of colours which are bright or delicate depending on the change of the season: the blu of the sea, the light blu like the colour of the traditional crafts that the fisherman face the sea in, green like the pine and olive treets that frame the magnificent view of the gulf, like the orange and lemon treets that give the air its sweet smell, like the vegetation and the gardens that are the pride of the people of Sorrento.

Many civilitations have passed through here: the Etruscans, the Greeks, who give the city its urban layout that is still clearly visibible today in the historical centre, the Oscans, the Romans. Later the subgugation to Byzantium, the seek by the Longobards, the conquest by the Normans, the influence of the Aragonese.

After a long period of stagnation, the beginning of the 1700 saw a period of cultural and economic rebirth for the whole Sorrentine peninsula, which reached its climax during the 1800. In this period Sorrento become a touristic destination and it was included in the so-called “Grand Tour”, a journey through Italy that every noble European son had to make to complete his cultural formation. For that reason guests such as Byron, Keats, Scott, Dickens, Goethe, Wagner and Nitzsche come to stay in Sorrento in search of sun and inspiration. In the same time also the tourist industry was born that is now the most important sector of the Sorrentine economy.

Today Sorrento is a charming city with over one hundred comfortable hotels.

It is rich of artistic sights as St. Francis’s Church, Villa Comunale, Correale Museum and the Cathedral.

The church of St. Francis with its lovely bell tower and the monastery which contains interesting cloisters from the 14 the century whose capitals support arches pointed in the Morish style.

The cathedral is renovated in the 15th century with its campanile.

The museum Correale di terranova is housed in an 18th century palace. On the grand floor there is a very interesting archaelogical collection. Particulary impressive are the museum’s collections of 17th and 18th century, furniture mostly Neapolita and china from Dresden, Vienna and Naples.

Beyond the Correale Museum you reach a terrace called “Belvedere” where you can admire the view of the sea and beatiful sunsets.

As legends tell Ulisses resisted here the call of the sirens. The city is also the birthplace of Tasso (1544), the author of Jerusalem Delivered. The villa where he was born is now part of the well known Hotel Tramontano.

Food and Drink

In the meny restaurants of the city you can taste several spacialities of the traditional local way of cooking as the “pizza”, “gnocchi alla sorrentina”

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Positano

Set into the mountain, surrounded by rich mediterranean vegetation, Positano is so picturesque as to seem a spontaneous stage setting. Seen from the sea it looks like a huge nativity scene, a waterfall of little multicoloured houses clinging onto its sides.

The town develops vertically. The homes, one on top of the other, are characterised by arched porticos that give onto the sea, and are painted in pastel colours, giving it the look of a multifaceted precious stone. It is not for nothing that Positano is called “the gem of the divine coast”. The narrow streets, lined with boutiques, run downhill between the houses flowing onto the Spiaggia Grande, a wide beach. From here there is a beautiful view of the sea, as well as of the town as it clambers up the mountainside.

On the main square of Positano is the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, there since the year 1,000. The great coloured majolica cupola is visible from all over town. The little beaches of Positano are charming, and easy to get to on foot or by boat: Fornillo, Fiumicello and Arienzo.

Positano is a holiday destination appreciated for VIP vacations. Around 1940 Irene Kowaliska, a painter who lived here in Villa Sette Santi, used Positano as inspiration for her paintings on cloth. The Villa Stella Romana has been host to, among other Popes, Pope John Paul II. Illustrious artists, fashion moguls and screen stars love to come here to relax. A few miles from the coast are Li Galli, or “Sirenuse”, a tiny archipelago made up of three islets: the Gallo Lungo, the Rotonda and the Castelluccio, considered the ancient dwellings of the enchanting Sirens. Positano is not just about the sea: pleasant walks take one to visit the evocative areas around Lattari Mountains, like Montepertuso, so-called because it is said that the Madonna appeared here in a hole in the cliff (“pertuso” stands for hole) . A stairway of 1,700 steps takes you to Nocelle. It is from here that the famous Trail of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) begins, with beautiful views over the entire coast. Or you can reach the beautiful coastal Punta San Pietro, where there is a little church on a precipice over the sea.

On a slope cultivated with vines and olive trees one finds Furore. The ancient name for the entire area was once Terra Furoris, for the deafening noise made by the sea and the wind during tempestuous nights as they echoed among the high walls of the sheer fjords that come straight down from the plateau of Agerola. A steep set of steps takes you to the bottom. The attraction of this piece of coast is irresistable, with the fjords wedged between vines and cliffs, tiny houses and the sea.

Praiano, halfway up the promontory of Capo Sottile, was the summer residence of the Doge of Amalfi, a precocious sign of the future of the village toward becoming a relaxing holiday resort. The lower part of town goes towards Marina di Praia, a beach carved between two high rock walls. Guarding over this marina is one of the many watch-towers that dot the coast.

The nearby Conca dei Marini is a fishing village hemmed in by a marine loop that offers a stunning slice of panorama. The two extremes of this marvellous bay are Capo di Conca, dominated by the Torre di Conca (erected in the 1500’s) testimony to the terrifying incursions of pirates, and the Emerald Grotto. The waters breaking into the grotto take on an intense green hue, caused by light filtration. This grotto is full of stalactites and stalagmites, often fused together to form limestone columns of up to 10 meters. From Conca you can get to the plateau of Agerola (650 mt), passing through woods and fields. The area, blessed with flowering fields renown since antiquity, is famous for its dairy products and for the exceptional views of the coast from above.

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Amalfi

The heart and soul of the coast is Amalfi. In the serene blue of the sky and sea, Amalfi, guarded by its port, seems held in the palm of a hand. Above, the scenic drapery of the mountains, hinged like a backdrop, dotted with houses; below, a picturesque weaving of alleys and steps, all the way to the Piazza, where the Cathedral dominates from the top of its majestic stairs. A unique scene, where historic memory intertwines with unforgettable natural beauty. Suspended between the slopes of Lattari Mountains and the sea, the picturesque alleys of Amalfi today host a large number of tourists, but there was a time, when the powerful Marine Republic had its moment of maximum splendour between the 10th and 12th centuries, that they kept the outsiders (Longobards and Saracenes) at bay. Rich and populated Amalfi enjoyed lively contact with the Orient. In memory of its ancient power every four years, in June, Amalfi holds the “Historic Regatta of the Marine Republics”.

The town of Amalfi, clinging to the slopes of the coast, is characterised by the famous Duomo (9th century). Its scenic position at the top of steep stairs, that open up among the houses gathered around the small square, give a particular flavour to Amalfi’s historic centre. The imposing polychromatic façade of the church, illuminated by gilded and enameled mosaics, is impressive. Traces of the middle ages are to be found in the elegant Cloister of Heaven, with its arabesque lines. From the cloister go to the Crucifiction Chapel, where the Diocesan Museum is hosted. In this chapel is the entrance to the crypt, dating back to the 1200’s. The complex is one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture of the Amalfi coast. An exploration of Amalfi that desires the inclusion of the less known places should make a stop at the Antichi Arsenali, where famous galleys, with over one hundred oars, were constructed and destined to commerce with the Orient.

The Tabula Amalphitana is preserved in Palazzo Morelli, seat of the municipality and of the Civic Museum. It was the first code of naval law, established in the times of the Republic and valid for the entire Mediterranean Sea. The famous “drafts” of Domenico Morelli, one of the most famous painters of the 1800’s, from which the mosaics which adorn the church were created, can be admired. Amalfi is also famous as the home of handmade paper.

The first workshops were opened along the Valley of the Mills, where the Paper Museum is. This area, crossed by the Canneto River, and that of the nearby Valley of the Ferriere, a charming natural environment, constitute a Natural Biogenetic Reserve. The ascent from Amalfi is tiring but fascinating. The remains of the mills that brought the water to the paper workshops are discovered, and the walk in nature that hides secret charms, is rewarded with springs and waterfalls, and glimpses of the sea between the lush mediterranean scrub. Almost tied to Amalfi, Atrani preserves in the intricacy of its little streets, stairs and overpasses, its medieval texture. During the Republican era of Amalfi, Atrani was inhabited by noble families. Here Doges were crowned and buried. Between alleys, arches, courtyards, little squares and with its typical small stairways, it seems like a nativity licked by the sea.

Atrani faces the sea with the characteristic profile of the Maddalena Church (1274) that is topped by a belltower and cupola that is covered with vividly coloured majolica. The neoclassic church of San Salvatore de’ Bireto, on piazza Umberto I was founded in 940. It was in this church that the election ceremonies and inaugurations of the new Doges of the Republic were held. The Grotto of the Saints can be reached by the state road. Here the ruins of the ancient benedictine monastery of Santi Quirico e Giulitta, founded in 986, are visible. The little grotto is decorated with byzantine style frescoes that date to the 12th century.

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Ravello

From Amalfi a winding road ascends seven kilometres up the “Dragon’s Valley” to the hill town of Ravello. Located on the small escarpment of Monte Lattari, it is set amidst vast semi-tropical gardens and overlooks, from 350 metres, the coast south towards the Gulf of Salerno, and the town of Amalfi directly below. It is no wonder then, that this town, with its head in the clouds and its clear, sunny climate, has appealed for centuries to writers, artists, musicians, travellers… and dreamers! Boccaccio, D. H. Lawrence and Wagner are among the “greats” who succumbed to the spell of Ravello. Wagner partly composed his opera “Parsifal” here, and today author Gore Vidal lives and derives inspiration from this charming town.

Chamber Musik on the Amalfi Coast

Built in the thirteenth century as a Convent of the Order of St. Augustine, its paved balconies and weathered stone walls crystallize an ambience which is ageless. It is easy to conjure images of medieval life in this town as you stroll through its intriguing alleys, stairways and roofed passages to find yourself at Villa Rufolo.

Beautiful gardens with views across the mountains and the Coast below, surround this home of the powerful medieval family of that name. It is a magnificent building; its Moorish cloisters beckoning from an avenue shaded by ancient trees. The extensive gardens of exotic plants and brilliantly coloured flowers frame vistas of the water far below. Here, each Spring a Wagnerian festival is held at sunset; there, suspended high above the cerulean sea and the coastline, the composer is commemorated, and so too is the inspiration he derived from his love of Ravello.

The charms of Ravello also captivated an Englishman, Lord Grimthorpe, who built the Villa Cimbrone early this century with the help of his valet, Nicola Mansi, a native of Ravello. Together they transformed an ancient villa, enriching it with antiques, paintings and relics collected from all over Italy. Today the gardens of Villa Cimbrone are a mediterranean sanctuary. Tall cypresses reach heavenward, the fragrance of massed roses fills the air; pathways lead us to statues of Roman gods. Along the “Avenue of Immensity” huge pink oleanders line the way to the Belvedere posed on the cliff’s edge. From this little building you can pause to take in the unforgettable views from here across the “Infinite Terrace” to the sea and sky beyond, and recall the words of Omar Khayam which are carved above a stone seat in the rose garden at Villa Cimbrone:

“Ah, Moon of my Delight who know’st no wane,

The Moon of Heav’n is rising once again:

How oft hereafter rising shall she look

Through this same Garden after us in vain!”

[Rubaiyat: Omar Khayam]

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Pompeii

The ‘discovery’ of Pompeii and Herculaneum

Majestic and menacing, Vesuvius still dominates the Neapolitan landscape. From the Eighteenth century onwards travellers have been prepared to tackle the climb up to the top in order to admire the panorama and look down into the crater. There is no better starting point to begin a journey through the history and culture of Campania.
A journey which takes us back in time, as far as that 24th of August in 79 A.D. when Vesuvius ‘put on a show’ with a devastating eruption which buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Oplontis.

The rediscovery of the places that were victims of the wrath of the volcano came about almost by chance. In 1709 the prince d’Elboeuf, was having a well dug in his Vesuvian residence, when he came upon the remains of the theatre of Herculaneum. From then on, researches were made which brought to light an archaeological, artistic and historical heritage of inestimable value, which every year draws millions of visitors.

Pompeii
Being an important commercial centre in Campania felix, played a strategic role in the redistribution of goods between Rome, the inland cities and the ports on the Mediterranean. The life of the city centred around the Forum. Still today one can admire the remains of the Basilica, seat of justice and chamber of commerce, religious buildings and the  Macellum, site of the marketplace. From the main square streets lead off to the ancient city, revealing majestic houses, such as the House of the Faun and the House of the Vettii, with their splendid frescoes. The shops in via dell’Abbondanza, offer a lively impression of everyday life two thousands years ago. From here we carry on to the Stabian Baths, the oldest public baths in Pompeii, ending up at the massively impressive Amphitheatre, where even today, as in the Large Theatre, there are concerts and theatrical productions.

Just outside the city, stands the Villa of the Mysteries, the most ‘enigmatic’ monument in Pompeii, with its grand fresco celebrating the mysterious cult of Dionysus.
In summer the ruins can also be visited at night. ‘Suggestioni al foro’ is a theatrical production which, through sounds and voices echoing around the temples and houses, recreates the atmosphere of the ‘lost’ city. The visit ends with a multimedia show which reconstructs the dramatic phases of the eruption with special effects and filmed images.

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Paestum

Discovering Magna Grecia The origins of civilization in Campania and its relation to the Greek world are very ancient. In the plain of Sele, there is Paestum, the important Greek settlement in Campania (VI century B.C.). It is famous for its magnificent Doric temples: The Basilica, the conventional name which in actual fact indicates a temple dedicated to Hera (the main divinity of Paestum) is an arcaic building which scholars have dated to the years immediately following 550 B.C. The so-called Temple of Neptune (or Poseidon) was in fact dedicated to Hera Argiva, goddess of maternity and fertility, as shown by the large number of small statues, vases and other objects found in the votive offerings of the building.

Paestum In the sacred area between the two temples dedicated to Hera a number of small religious buildings and altars also came to light, certainly dedicated to the same divinity. Many Roman buildings have been found in the surrounding area, in particular a Patrician house and pool with, in the large open space of the Forum, remains of inns, meat market buildings, a temple dating back to the third century A.D. spas and shops.
Along the northern side of the Forum stands the so-called Italic Temple, built after 273 B.C., which was probably the Capitolium, i.e. the temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva.
PaestumTo the west of the area of the temples and of the Forum, runs the Via Sacra, a wide paved road on which the religious processions passed. Along the road we can find a sacred enclosure inside of which, excavated in the rock, an underground votive chapel has been found, interpreted by scholars as a religious building or a cenotaph.
Also near the Via Sacra the Temple dedicated to Athena, stands traditionally known as that of Ceres. Built around the sixth century B.C., it is one of the most prized examples of Greek architecture in Italy.

The Archaeological Museum of Paestum contains precious items found in the area around Heraion in the plain of Sele, together with tomb paintings, including the highly celebrated ones in the Tomb of the Diver.

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Pompeii

The ‘discovery’ of Pompeii and Herculaneum

Majestic and menacing, Vesuvius still dominates the Neapolitan landscape. From the Eighteenth century onwards travellers have been prepared to tackle the climb up to the top in order to admire the panorama and look down into the crater. There is no better starting point to begin a journey through the history and culture of Campania.
A journey which takes us back in time, as far as that 24th of August in 79 A.D. when Vesuvius ‘put on a show’ with a devastating eruption which buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Oplontis.

The rediscovery of the places that were victims of the wrath of the volcano came about almost by chance. In 1709 the prince d’Elboeuf, was having a well dug in his Vesuvian residence, when he came upon the remains of the theatre of Herculaneum. From then on, researches were made which brought to light an archaeological, artistic and historical heritage of inestimable value, which every year draws millions of visitors.

Pompeii
Being an important commercial centre in Campania felix, played a strategic role in the redistribution of goods between Rome, the inland cities and the ports on the Mediterranean. The life of the city centred around the Forum. Still today one can admire the remains of the Basilica, seat of justice and chamber of commerce, religious buildings and the  Macellum, site of the marketplace. From the main square streets lead off to the ancient city, revealing majestic houses, such as the House of the Faun and the House of the Vettii, with their splendid frescoes. The shops in via dell’Abbondanza, offer a lively impression of everyday life two thousands years ago. From here we carry on to the Stabian Baths, the oldest public baths in Pompeii, ending up at the massively impressive Amphitheatre, where even today, as in the Large Theatre, there are concerts and theatrical productions.

Just outside the city, stands the Villa of the Mysteries, the most ‘enigmatic’ monument in Pompeii, with its grand fresco celebrating the mysterious cult of Dionysus.
In summer the ruins can also be visited at night. ‘Suggestioni al foro’ is a theatrical production which, through sounds and voices echoing around the temples and houses, recreates the atmosphere of the ‘lost’ city. The visit ends with a multimedia show which reconstructs the dramatic phases of the eruption with special effects and filmed images.

close

Herculaneum

The ‘discovery’ of Pompeii and Herculaneum

Majestic and menacing, Vesuvius still dominates the Neapolitan landscape. From the Eighteenth century onwards travellers have been prepared to tackle the climb up to the top in order to admire the panorama and look down into the crater. There is no better starting point to begin a journey through the history and culture of Campania.
A journey which takes us back in time, as far as that 24th of August in 79 A.D. when Vesuvius ‘put on a show’ with a devastating eruption which buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Oplontis.

The rediscovery of the places that were victims of the wrath of the volcano came about almost by chance. In 1709 the prince d’Elboeuf, was having a well dug in his Vesuvian residence, when he came upon the remains of the theatre of Herculaneum. From then on, researches were made which brought to light an archaeological, artistic and historical heritage of inestimable value, which every year draws millions of visitors.

Herculaneum
At Herculaneum, unlike Pompeii, where the eruption destroyed roofs and attics, a large part of the buildings remain several stories high: the House of Argus still has its wooden balcony.
The House of Relief of Telephus is distinguished by its refined marble decorations; the House of Neptune and Amphitrite have beautiful mosaics; the House of the Deer has sumptuous rooms and the superb Villa of the Papyri is famous for its sculptures, now on view in the Archaeological Museum of Naples and its library of philosophical texts. Not far from Herculaneum, near Torre Annunziata (formerly ancient Oplontis) stands the Villa of Poppea. The traditional view is that it belonged to Poppea Sabina, Nero’s second wife. The building, standing in a large garden, is decorated with brilliant frescoes representing still life subjects.

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Vesuvious

Whoever says Vesuvius, says Campania.
Neapolitans call the most famous mountain in the world ‘A Muntagna. It is the symbol of the City that, with its perfect form, closes the Gulf. The majestic cone dominates a disquieting and evocative environment. Tormented landscapes of savage beauty await the visitor: the panorama from the top of the mountain extends from the Sorrentine Peninsula to Capo Posillipo, giving rise to unforgettable memories, especially in the tenuous light of sunrise or with the intense ones of sunset.

Vesuvius is the only active volcano in continental Europe, and is also one of its most dangerous, as the land at its feet is densly populated and the houses arrive up to 700 mt above sea level. The summit to the left is that of Mount Somma (1133 mt), and to the right the cone of Vesuvius (1281 mt). They are seperated by a valley called ‘Valle del Gigante’ (Valley of the Giant), in turn subdivided into ‘Atrio del Cavallo’ (Hall of the Horse, West) and ‘Valle del Inferno’ (Valley of Hell, East).

The original inhabitants had forgotten that they were dealing with a volcano: it was known solely for its excellent wines and for the thick vegetation that covered its summit. It became suddenly famous when, in 79 BC, it erupted. Entire cities, among which Pompeii and Herculaneum, were destroyed.

The last eruption, filmed by Allied troops, was in 1944. Since then the volcano has been dormant. In 1991 the institution of Vesuvius National Park was decreed, and the “World Biosphere Reserve” status was given to it by Unesco. This comprises all of the area around the volcano, the entire archaeological system of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis and the Miglio d’Oro (Golden Mile) with its splendid examples of 1700’s and 1800’s villas. As for the flora, the territories of the Vesuvius and the Somma differ in certain aspects. The former is more arid and sunny, with typical mediterranean vegetation, pine woods and holm-oak stands. The latter is moister, with woods of chestnut, oak, adler, maple and holm-oak trees. Among these you can come across, rarely, a splendid stand of birches, unusual for this mediterranean environment. There are also many orchids, 23 species in all, and the bright yellow broom, that so enchanted the poet Giacomo Leopardi. The fauna of the Park is also particularly interesting.

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Naples

In the shadow the Vesuvius tourism’s roots run deep: on the imprints of great greek columns refined aristocrats and roman emperors built their sumptuous villas and oasis all along the shoreline of the Gulf. It is not a coincidence that at the begining of this third millennium the peculiar magic of this civilisation continues to generate new sources of amazement: the recovery of age old monuments and traditions – folklore, gastronomy, genuine cultivation – that were thought irreparably lost, events and shows worthy of the great international circuit, new fodder for artistic and scientific research.

The artistic treasure of Naples to visit are, in fact, to many to count: the historical centre, a patrimony under the tutelage of UNESCO, the palaces, churches, catacombs and underground passageways, the Archaeological Museum, the places of medieval and renaissance power amassed around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace, the unforgettable waterfront from Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo. The hilly area of Vomero offers masterfully restored buildings like the Capodimonte Royal Palace and the Certosa (monastery) of San Martino, museum collections amongst the most important in the world. A trip through the twentieth century city takes you, among the notable emerging urban and architectural sights, to the rationalist Mostra d’Oltremare, with its park, sports complex and exhibition space, to Città della Scienza (Science City) near by. Science is also witness to the recovery of industrial archaeological complexes and the originality of a scientific tradition that renews itself. Unusual and surprising is the exploration of the new homes of contemporary art: monumental structures like the PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, the MADRE, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (Donnaregina Contemporary Arts Museum), and the unique artistry of the metro stations that evidence the original horizons of farseeing cultural politics. Naples, in the final sum, remains, deep in its roots, even with all the difficulties and contradictions inherent to all big metropolitan cities, an extraordinary place to live, admire, and enjoy with all the senses: for the depth of the art and civilisation that has idelibly marked its history; for the mild climate that accompanies day and night the shows, musical and theatrical events, exhibitions, fairs and religious gatherings; for the gourmand possibilites to search out the age old culinary tradition, the seafood and the unique typical products (buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Docg wine, varied and refined pastries) in all their local translations, or for finding fine hidden little shops where craftsmen still ply their wares.

The origins of the city are lost in time and charming legends. The most tenable hypothese puts the beginnings of the city in the 9th century BC, when the greeks colonised the Gulf on their way up to the high Thyrrenean mineral deposits. In 326 it was declared a Roman colony. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples became the capital of an important Duchy, that namaged to stave off the invading Longobards. In 1137 the Duchy fell into the hands of the Normans, who favoured cultural integration. The Port of Naples became the most important in the world. After the death of Frederick II of Svevia, Carlo D’Angiò made his triumphal entrance to Naples in 1266. Power passed into the hands of Alfonso d’Aragona in 1442, after a long war that brought the city to its knees. In a short time, however, the situation changed: important civil engineering (the construction of sewage conducts and streets) and restoration works were undertaken (at Castel Nuovo the Triumph Arch was built). Other works (like the opening of via Toledo, the construction of the Spanish Quarters – formerly barracks – and the restoration of the Chiaia Riviera) were completed during the following two centuries during the Spanish rule (1503-1707), up to the arrival of the Bourbons (1734), who reigned the Kingdom of Naples until 1860 when Italy was finally united. Our journey of discovery of the city begins in the historic core which preserves ancient greek-roman imprints, to continue with the places of power of the medieval-renaissance period concentrated around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace. We will then follow along the waterfront from the Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo, to end up on the green hills of Capodimonte and Vomero.

close

Naples

In the shadow the Vesuvius tourism’s roots run deep: on the imprints of great greek columns refined aristocrats and roman emperors built their sumptuous villas and oasis all along the shoreline of the Gulf. It is not a coincidence that at the begining of this third millennium the peculiar magic of this civilisation continues to generate new sources of amazement: the recovery of age old monuments and traditions – folklore, gastronomy, genuine cultivation – that were thought irreparably lost, events and shows worthy of the great international circuit, new fodder for artistic and scientific research.

The artistic treasure of Naples to visit are, in fact, to many to count: the historical centre, a patrimony under the tutelage of UNESCO, the palaces, churches, catacombs and underground passageways, the Archaeological Museum, the places of medieval and renaissance power amassed around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace, the unforgettable waterfront from Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo. The hilly area of Vomero offers masterfully restored buildings like the Capodimonte Royal Palace and the Certosa (monastery) of San Martino, museum collections amongst the most important in the world. A trip through the twentieth century city takes you, among the notable emerging urban and architectural sights, to the rationalist Mostra d’Oltremare, with its park, sports complex and exhibition space, to Città della Scienza (Science City) near by. Science is also witness to the recovery of industrial archaeological complexes and the originality of a scientific tradition that renews itself. Unusual and surprising is the exploration of the new homes of contemporary art: monumental structures like the PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, the MADRE, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (Donnaregina Contemporary Arts Museum), and the unique artistry of the metro stations that evidence the original horizons of farseeing cultural politics. Naples, in the final sum, remains, deep in its roots, even with all the difficulties and contradictions inherent to all big metropolitan cities, an extraordinary place to live, admire, and enjoy with all the senses: for the depth of the art and civilisation that has idelibly marked its history; for the mild climate that accompanies day and night the shows, musical and theatrical events, exhibitions, fairs and religious gatherings; for the gourmand possibilites to search out the age old culinary tradition, the seafood and the unique typical products (buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Docg wine, varied and refined pastries) in all their local translations, or for finding fine hidden little shops where craftsmen still ply their wares.

The origins of the city are lost in time and charming legends. The most tenable hypothese puts the beginnings of the city in the 9th century BC, when the greeks colonised the Gulf on their way up to the high Thyrrenean mineral deposits. In 326 it was declared a Roman colony. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples became the capital of an important Duchy, that namaged to stave off the invading Longobards. In 1137 the Duchy fell into the hands of the Normans, who favoured cultural integration. The Port of Naples became the most important in the world. After the death of Frederick II of Svevia, Carlo D’Angiò made his triumphal entrance to Naples in 1266. Power passed into the hands of Alfonso d’Aragona in 1442, after a long war that brought the city to its knees. In a short time, however, the situation changed: important civil engineering (the construction of sewage conducts and streets) and restoration works were undertaken (at Castel Nuovo the Triumph Arch was built). Other works (like the opening of via Toledo, the construction of the Spanish Quarters – formerly barracks – and the restoration of the Chiaia Riviera) were completed during the following two centuries during the Spanish rule (1503-1707), up to the arrival of the Bourbons (1734), who reigned the Kingdom of Naples until 1860 when Italy was finally united. Our journey of discovery of the city begins in the historic core which preserves ancient greek-roman imprints, to continue with the places of power of the medieval-renaissance period concentrated around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace. We will then follow along the waterfront from the Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo, to end up on the green hills of Capodimonte and Vomero. close

National Archaeological Museum

National Archaeological Museum The most important museum of classical archaeology in the world. Charles of Bourbon put the largest art collection in Italy, the Farnese collection inherited by his mother Elisabeth, into this building (the old “Study Palace” or university). Over the years the largest archaeological collection of all time, relics from the city and from the villas buried under the ashes of Vesuvius in 79 BC, was brought here. The most important collection of the museum is that of the mosaics, paintings, jewellery and objects recovered from the buried vesuvian homes. A collection unmatched peer in the world that attracts, needless to say, millions of visitors. Another highlight is the classical sculpture collection, some roman copies of Greek originals, amongst which the celebrated Farnese sculptures (the Bull, the Hercules and dozens of others). The cameo and cut gem collection, which includes the extraordinary Farnese Cup, is also very rich. The vast epigraph collection includes over 2,000 pieces representing all of the languages once spoken in Campania (from Greek to Oscan, Etruscan to Latin). The Egyptian collection is only second in importance in Italy to that of Turin. There is a section dedicated to the Papyrus Villa, the famous roman house in Herculaneum that brought to light so many relics, amongst which the celebrated statues in bronze and marble. The Secret Cabinet is a part of the museum that houses a 19th century collection of Greek and Roman objects considered “obscene” at the times, reserved only for authorized visitors. It includes now sculptures, frescoes, mosaics, amulets, oil-lamps and graffiti with erotic themes from the digs at Pompeii. close

Castel dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo The profile of the coast is dominated by the massive tuff wall of the Castel dell’Ovo, the oldest of the city, that sits on the little islet of Megaris facing the famous Santa Lucia quarter. Now connected to land by a small bridge, the island was chosen by the roman patrician Licinius Lucullus as site for his new villa. It was transformed into a convent by the Saint Basil monks in about 492 AD. Under the Normans in the 12th century it became a fortress. The Hall of the Columns, so called because it re-used the powerful columns of the original villa, must be visited. From the cannon terrace, on the high part of the castle, you can enjoy a marvellous view of the gulf. Under the walls of the castle is Borgo Marinari, constructed in the 1800’s, it was originally meant to house fishermen, their boats and their families. It now houses nautical clubs, restaurants, bars and trendy night spots. The name of Castel dell’Ovo (Castle of the Egg) derives from a legend tied to the poet Virgil, to whom the medieval Neapolitans attributed magical powers. One of the wizard’s talismans was said to be hidden in the castle: an egg preserved in a jug and locked in an iron cage. The castle would never crumble as long as the egg remained intact. close

Capodimonte Museum

Capodimonte Museum From Camaldoli, going down along Viale Colli Aminei, you arrive to Capodimonte. The name derives from the late latin “Caput de Monte” (top of the mount) and clearly indicates its position: a hill on the highest part of the City. Here rises the Royal Palace of Capodimonte, surrounded by a vast park. Charles of Bourbon, a dedicated hunter, wanted to construct a hunting lodge here. After having done so, he had it enlarged to house the precious Farnese collections. The building, designed by Antonio Medrano, was finished only in 1839. Located in the immense park are the hunting lodge of Vittorio Emanuele II, a small lodge known as “of the Queen”, the Chapel of San Gennaro, the building of the old 1737 porcelain factory of Charles of Bourbon, the hermitage of the Cappuccini monks and the Fagianeria (pheasant breeding facility). Today, the Royal Palace is home to the National Museum of Capodimonte, one of the most important in the world for painting and the decorative arts. The main nucleus of the Museum is the Farnese Collection, started by Pope Paul III and inherited by Charles’ mother Elisabeth Farnese. The picture gallery has more than 200 masterpieces: Masaccio, Botticelli, Raphael, Ribera, Titian, Mantegna, Correggio, El Greco, Lorenzo Lotto, Parmigianino, Carracci, and Bruegel. There are also two preparative drawings by Raphael for the ‘Segnatura Room’, and by Michelangelo for the Pauline Chapel in the Vatican. Also exceptional is the gallery of 13th-19th century Neapolitan painting: the Saint Ludovico of Tolosa by Simone Martini, the evocative Flagellation by Caravaggio, and again the works of Ribera, Luca Giordano, and Francesco Solimena. The section dedicated to the 1800’s is rich with the School of Posillipo painters, from Anton Smick Pitloo to Giacinto Gigante, and the masters of Naturalism, like the Palizzis. The many artists of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s – from Domenico Morelli to Vincenzo Migliaro – complete the artistic panorama. The contemporary section is also renewed by the presence of artists such as Alberto Burri, Andy Warhol, Carlo Alfano and Mimmo Paladino. The Museum holds other surprises: the Historic Apartment, with the porcelain sitting room of Queen Maria Amalia, for example. The collection of decorative arts is one of the richest in all of Italy with unique works like the precious Farnese Box and the wall tapestries of d’Avalos, and the exceptional porcelain works like the Aurora Cart by Filippo Tagliolini. close

Maschio Angioino

Maschio Angioino Castel Nuovo (named so as to distinguish it from the older royal residences – Castel dell’Ovo and Castel Capuano) is also known as Maschio Angioino. The impressive fortress, on which work was begun in 1279 by Charles I of Anjou but subsequently modified by the Aragonese, has a trapezoid base and is surrounded by a moat where the foundations of the five cylindrical towers stand. The Triumph Arch marks the entrance to the castle and is its main ornament. It was erected to commemorate the triumphal entrance to the city by Alfonso of Aragon in 1443. The magnificent sculpted reliefs represent the best finest examples of Renaissance sculpture in the south. Inside the castle is the Palatine Chapel, the only building that still has its original look, and the extraordinary Barons’ Hall. The Civic Museum here was inaugurated in 1992. Castel Nuovo dominates the centre of piazza Municipio. At the high end of the square San Giacomo Palace rises, seat of the City of Naples; it incorporates the 16th century San Giacomo degli Spagnoli Church. Behind the altar rests the magnificent tomb of the Viceroy Pedro da Toledo. close

Umberto I gallery

Umberto I gallery (1887-1890) Above has a splendid iron and glass covering 57 meters high, and below an elegant inlaid marble floor. There are shops, cafès and bookstores on the inside. Santa Brigida Church is part of the complex and has a beautiful fresco called Heaven, by Luca Giordano, in its dome. close

San Carlo Theatre

San Carlo Theatre Inaugurated on November 4, 1737, and named after its patron Charles of Bourbon, is the oldest opera house in the world. The building, partially destroyed by fire in 1816, was restored by Antonio Niccolini, the designer of its façade. In the early 1800’s the San Carlo Theatre lived through one of its most glorious seasons ever thanks to the impresario Domenico Barbaja who commissioned works by musicians such as Gioachino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti. close

Piazza del Plebiscito

Piazza del Plebiscito Opens up, the largest of the city, spectacular backdrop of cultural events and concerts. It is characterised by the profile of the San Francesco di Paola Church, with its neoclassical colonnade and its Pantheon of Rome inspired interior. close

Royal Palace

Royal Palace At the centre of the square the two great statues of Charles of Bourbon (work of Antonio Canova) and Ferdinand I on horseback face the Royal Palace. Construction was begun in the early 1600’s based on a project by Domenico Fontana. Enriched by Joachim Murat and Carolina Bonaparte with neoclassical embellishments and decorations, some from the Tuileries, it was damaged in 1837 by fire, and restored by Gaetano Genovese. To visit the priceless interior cross over the honour courtyard and enter the Historical Living Quarters Museum (30 rooms on one floor) which has preserved the original furniture and décor. The monumental staircase of coloured marble inlay and the Small Court Theatre, a ballroom transformed in 1768 by Fernando Fuga into a gracious Rococo ambience, are beautiful. In another part of the palace the National Library, with its more than million and a half volumes and several priceless medieval codices, can be found. The famous papyrus of Herculaneum are preserved here. close